A land overlooked by its very own guardian sea, lashing the arm of the land with massive roaring waves. The sky and the ocean seem deep and endless as always, spotted with silhouettes of fishing boats that create the most serene picture. The name – Pondicherry.
Centuries later the French connection is still dominant. Although people try to play it down, it is visible in all aspects of the town like the names of streets and monuments and even the ‘kepis’ worn by the Policemen. Divided into two by a canal built by the French, the city has two distinct flavors - the old colonial charm of the French and the native colors of hinterland.
Pondicherry is the land of sages and gods, sea and surf, truth and search. It is the kind of place you never really want to leave.
And for good reason..
Shop till you drop! If you’re a compulsive shopper then people, this is your haven! Taxes here are either too low to bother about, or totally non-existent, so may it be consumer goods or even cars, everything is comparatively much cheaper. Products are found in huge variety here so cheap goods aren’t your only incentive. With garments, marbled silks, perfumes, handmade incense sticks and candles, and leather products there’s absolutely no way you won’t come home a few bags heavier. A lot of French and British colonial furniture that is refinished is also known to be available and makes for a good buy.
Your shopping list just refuses to be complete without pottery items. It’s an absolute ‘can’t miss’! A wide range of designs are available that exude elegance, simplicity and have signature decorative motifs that make them unique. They are available at Pondicherry and Auroville, and most shops would have a good collection.
A little taste...
Like Bombay Pondicherry offers a wide range of cuisines. French, Chinese, Indian and Vietnamese seem to be popular. Food is scrumptious although I should warn you against the roadside eat outs. They’re definitely cheaper but not too reliable, so unless your stomach can take some serious battering the larger restaurants and cafes are a safe bet. Strong French influence is still very evident in their food habits so French cuisine shouldn’t be missed. Seafood happens to be very fresh here which makes for another that’s a ‘can’t miss’. In fact, the fish at dinner was probably a happy camper by the reef in the sea a couple of hours ago! (ehh.. not such an appetizing thought.)
Happenings The novice and experienced, both are pulled to The International Yoga Festival is held at Aurobindo Ashram in January every year. Gathering crowds from all over the world the festival holds meditation sessions, occasionally hosts films, lectures and other performances. If you’re the type to go ga ga over hand-made paper, perfumes, incense, embroidered goods, marble works and other such stuff, then this is the place to be. All items are produced by the ashram inmates.
The Sani Peyarchi Festival held at Thirunallar once every three years is Pondicherry’s ‘Kumbh Mela’, where Lord Saturn is worshiped.
The Serenity Beach and all the Churches are also a fabulous site. Some date as far back as the 17th Century and are a site to see. With undeniable grandeur the gothic depictions of the life of Jesus Christ at the Sacred Heart Cathedral, it is a popular tourist attraction.
Getting Around
You couldn’t do better than walk. Walking is the best way to see Pondicherry. Find your way around as you soak in the local brilliance of the place. The town is surrounded by four boulevards that meet at corners, so getting lost is practically impossible. If you really wanna fall into the details of the land then a 2 to 4 hour guided heritage walk would be ideal. And for not more than Rs. 100 per head it’s a pretty good deal. Another way to trot around town is by cycle, also popular here.
There are broadly three kinds of accommodation:
1)Heritage hotels,
2)‘Business’ hotels and
3)Guesthouses run by the Aurobindo Ashram.
That last one has unappealing constraints: no drinking, no smoking, lights out at 10. (Definitely off my list)
FYI!!
Know a little about the History of Pondicherry
Known as 'Poduke' to Roman and Greek cartographers, this place witnessed the fusion of the two cultures - the Roman amphitheatre that was excavated provides enough evidence. It also has evidence of being a colony of the Chola dynasty before foreign powers came into the picture. Finally a scuffle between the French and the British, the French won Pondicherry and ruled it by dividing the city into one area for the French and the other for the natives. Colonized by the French, it was voluntarily handed over to the Indian Government in 1954 and became the Union Territory of Pondicherry.
With all of that and more to offer, you’re next holiday has definitely got to be Pondicherry.
Be sure to send in a postcard!